I thought it might be helpful if I started posting some thoughts from discussions I have had with folks.
Q1. Do you recommend using the training method of not letting your dogs see cattle while they are kenneled?
A. No. (1). I don’t want my cowdogs to be like ravaging, high-speed pack animals. They need to learn that working cattle is something we do together. We work cattle when I need cattle processed. Freelancing, taking off for the heck of it, and pestering/terrorizing cattle is not encouraged or allowed here. It all goes back to being a good listener, respectful, well-mannered and a partner.
(2). I don’t have the luxury of 1,000-10,000+ acre pastures. It is easier to undo a wreck in 10,000 acres….generally less fence gets torn up. I have 50-200 acre areas to work in.
(3). Physically, I have cattle everywhere on my places. It is not realistic for the cowdogs to ‘not see cattle’ while they are in their pens.
(4). Training methods can also be a reflection of the handler’s personality and work ethics. I don’t rely on e-collars as the method of choice to stop or knock a cowdog off of cattle. I spend a lot of time on training for listening and easy retrieval of cowdogs.
Q2. Do I use ducks, goats or sheep to start my pups?
A. No.
Q3. At what age do you start your young dogs?
A. By 4-6 months I have had the pups in the grow lot and corrals letting them explore and learn their way around where they will be working. It really helps them learn to be comfortable with the surroundings. Comfort=confidence. It makes a lot of sense to set up their training regimen so that they learn to get around, listen, and not be afraid of going into close or tight spots. They learn how to crawl under gates, get through the fence, where they can and can’t go. It is fun for them to go along and learn that where I go there is going to be something new and exciting to do. And, if I have some calves in the lot, then we learn to walk into/through the cattle in a quiet and orderly manner…and it gives me an opportunity to see each pup’s intentions and responses to ‘that’ll do, let’s go, get a drink’. It’s like gathering personal data on each pup. Do they follow the parent, do they listen to me, to they just have that wild freelancing look!
Q4. What really makes a dog a good dog?
A. Your total devotion as a person to mentoring the dog. The best dogs are dogs that go everywhere with their owner. You build a bond. You learn each others’ silent body language. The pup/dog watches you and how you are with the stock. Your dog grows into a cowdog by what he/she sees in you.
Q5. Are the cowdogs in your sale going to be ready to ‘do it all’?
A. No. First off, you need to take the first few weeks or months to get to know your cowdog. Become friends. Bond. In some ways he/she is not going to know what to do or where to go. In some ways, the cowdog is going to be smarter than you. You need to “spend time getting to know each other”. You need to spend time “showing the cowdog where they are going to be working”. You need to spend time letting the cowdog go along so that the cattle can visually see the new addition to the operation. Cows and calves are pretty smart about knowing different cowdogs. For example, Bert could go anywhere, do anything and the cows and calves would never lift their head to recognize his presence. He simply blended in, didn’t take cheap shots at them as he passed through. As I added cowdogs or pups to the daily travels, then the cows and calves would immediately take notice of a ‘different looking dog’ or a ‘stranger’. In all you do, I cannot emphasize enough the value of “patience and time”. These are personal character traits that many people lack or have little of, but, they are traits that can really make your life a lot simpler. When I have a bad day with a dog and my patience runs thin I can tell how the dog reads the message I am sending. Bad days happen for all of us. But, remember that your dog or cattle’s actions are a reflection of your tone that you set or present. I can still see my dad. He could drive through his cattle everyday and they’d just ignore him. But if they were up in a lot, getting a drink and just browsing around, if they saw the pickup coming at a higher rate of speed, then it was a signal that they best head to the gate because something was up! If you can be around your stock and not put them into flight just because they see you and your dogs coming, then your work day will be a lot more enjoyable. You can argue that these thoughts don’t apply to all situations and I’d agree. But I can tell you that cattle that are given the chance to learn that a pickup, dog or horse are not something to fear and take flight from then life will be easier. Even folks that run on land permits or large grazing leases know the value of cattle that don’t automatically take flight. But, if you do have the flighty cattle, or cows/bulls that get on the fight, then a good, stand their ground cowdog is sure handy. (Also see my first Blog post for a little more insight on this question.)
Q6. How are these dogs around people and little kids?
A. I spend time socializing with my pups. I have a lot of folks that have small children or small grandchildren and they are not interested in a dog that is going to be unruly and possibly mean to a child. I do not use cowdogs in my breeding program that seem to have social issues. I don’t appreciate bad manners, bad behavior and fighting with other dogs. The dogs are protective to the premises or property. They will bark or growl at strangers and I don’t consider that a bad thing. I am glad they are protective of their home environment. I cannot stress enough that ‘dog fights’ are not acceptable here.
Q7. Can you use these dogs for working things other than cattle and do some of your customers use the dogs for other types of livestock?
A. Yes. First off, they are specifically bred for instincts geared for working cattle. I don’t let them go to bring the horses in. Here, the work is cattle and only cattle (well, there is the occasional coyote to run off…). I have ranchers that do use their cowdogs to bring the horses or pack mules in. I have farmers with beef and dairy cattle. I have ranchers with cattle and sheep. I have horse operations that use their cowdogs as turn-back helpers in cutting training. I have rotational grazing people. I have ranchers and cowboys that have over 50,000 acres to gather yearlings. I have bucking bull breeders. And, here, we work cattle of all classes from baby calves to ton-plus bulls. And, I insist on the cowdogs being respectful to baby calves. I don’t have a use for the dogs that are bred or allowed to be rough, unruly and hard to use. If you own your cattle then you understand the value of having cattle that do not have torn, ripped out or ripped off ears or tails. A cow can go from $70/cwt. to $10/cwt really quick. I’ve seen ‘trainers’ that don’t correct head swinging/tail jerking dogs they are working with and it is simply a matter of not thinking or caring about the ending value of the cattle at the point of sale.
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